Tanthauzo la nsalu ya jacquard

Nsalu ya Jacquard yoluka ndi makina pogwiritsa ntchito ulusi wamitundu iwiri kapena kuposerapo imalukira mwachindunji mapatani ovuta munsaluyo, ndipo nsalu yopangidwayo imakhala ndi mitundu kapena mapangidwe ake.Nsalu ya Jacquard ndi yosiyana ndi kupanga nsalu zosindikizidwa, zomwe zimaphatikizapo kuluka poyamba, ndiyeno chizindikirocho chikuwonjezeredwa.

Mbiri ya nsalu za jacquard

Wotsogolera wa jacquardnsalu

Zomwe zidapangidwa kale ndi nsalu ya jacquard ndi Brocade, nsalu ya silika yomwe idachokera ku Zhou Dynasty ya China (zaka za 10 mpaka 2nd isanakwane pakiyi), yokhala ndi mawonekedwe okongola komanso luso lokhwima.Panthawi imeneyi, kupanga nsalu za silika kunali chinsinsi ndi a China, ndipo panalibe chidziwitso cha anthu.Mu Mzera wa Han (zaka 95 ku paki), Brocade ya ku China imayambitsa Persia (tsopano Iran) ndi Daqin (Ufumu wakale wa Roma) kudzera mumsewu wa Silk.

Han Brocade: Nyenyezi zisanu zakum'mawa kuti zipindule China

Akatswiri a mbiri yakale a ku Byzantine apeza kuti kuyambira m'zaka za m'ma 400 mpaka 600, kupanga silika kulibe, nsalu zazikulu ndi ubweya ndizo nsalu.Munali m'zaka za zana la 6 pamene amonke awiri adabweretsa chinsinsi cha sericulture - kupanga silika - kwa mfumu ya Byzantine.Chifukwa cha zimenezi, anthu azikhalidwe za azungu anaphunzira kuswana, kulera ndi kudyetsa mbozi za silika.Kuyambira nthawi imeneyo, Byzantium inakhala dziko lalikulu kwambiri komanso lapakati padziko lonse lapansi kumayiko a Kumadzulo, limapanga mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya silika, kuphatikizapo ma brocades, damasks, brocatelles, ndi nsalu zokhala ngati tapestry.

 

M'nthawi ya Renaissance, zovuta za kukongoletsa kwa nsalu za silika za ku Italy zinawonjezeka (zinati zakhala zikuyenda bwino), ndipo zovuta komanso zapamwamba za nsalu za silika zapamwamba zinapangitsa Italy kukhala wofunika kwambiri komanso wopambana kwambiri wopanga nsalu za silika ku Ulaya.

Kupangidwa kwa nsalu ya jacquard

Asanayambe kupangidwa kwa nsalu ya Jacquard, Brocade inali nthawi yochuluka kupanga chifukwa cha zokongoletsera za nsalu.Chifukwa cha zimenezi, nsaluzi zinali zodula ndipo zinkangopezeka kwa anthu olemekezeka komanso olemera okha.

Mu 1804 Joseph Marie Jacquard anapanga makina a Jacquard, chipangizo chopangidwa ndi loom chomwe chinapangitsa kuti apange nsalu zowoneka bwino monga Brocade, damask, ndi matelassé."Khadi lamakhadi limayang'anira makina."makhadi ambiri okhomedwa amamangiriridwa pamodzi motsatizana mosalekeza.Mabowo angapo amakhomeredwa pa khadi lililonse, ndi khadi limodzi lathunthu lolingana ndi mzere umodzi wa mapangidwe.Makinawa mwina ndi amodzi mwazinthu zovuta kwambiri zoluka zoluka, chifukwa kukhetsa kwa Jacquard kunapangitsa kuti pakhale zotheka kupanga mitundu yopanda malire ya zovuta zoluka.

Kupangidwa kwa nsalu ya Jacquard kwathandiza kwambiri pamakampani opanga nsalu.Njira ya Jacquard ndi cholumikizira chofunikira cha loom chimatchedwa dzina la woyambitsa.Mawu akuti 'jacquard' sali achindunji kapena amalekezera ku nsalu ina iliyonse koma amatanthawuza njira yowonjezera yomwe imagwiritsa ntchito makinawo.Nsalu zopangidwa ndi mtundu uwu wa nsalu zimatha kutchedwa 'nsalu za jacquard.Kupangidwa kwa makina a jacquard kunawonjezera kwambiri kutulutsa kwa nsalu za jacquard.Kuyambira nthawi imeneyo, nsalu za jacquard zayandikira miyoyo ya anthu wamba.

Nsalu za Jacquard lero

Zovala za Jacquard zasintha kwambiri pazaka zambiri.Ndi kupangidwa kwa kompyuta, nsalu ya Jacquard inachoka pakugwiritsa ntchito makadi angapo okhomedwa.Mosiyana ndi izi, zida za Jacquard zimagwiritsa ntchito mapulogalamu apakompyuta.Zida zapamwambazi zimatchedwa makompyuta a Jacquard looms.Wopangayo amangofunika kumaliza kapangidwe ka nsalu pogwiritsa ntchito pulogalamuyo ndikupanga pulogalamu yofananira yopangira zida kudzera pakompyuta.Makina a jacquard apakompyuta amatha kumaliza kupanga.Anthu safunikiranso kupanga makadi ovuta omwe amakhomeredwa pamapangidwe aliwonse, kuchepetsa kwambiri kufunikira kwa zolemba zamanja ndikupanga njira yoluka nsalu ya jacquard yogwira ntchito komanso yotsika mtengo.

Njira yopangira nsalu ya jacquard

Design & Programming

Tikapeza kapangidwe ka nsalu, choyamba tiyenera kutembenuza kukhala fayilo yojambula yomwe kompyuta ya jacquard loom imatha kuzindikira ndiyeno sinthani fayilo ya pulogalamuyo kuti muwongolere ntchito yamakina a jacquard yamakompyuta kuti amalize kupanga nsalu.

Kufananiza mitundu

Kuti mupange nsalu monga momwe anapangidwira, muyenera kugwiritsa ntchito ulusi wamtundu woyenera popanga nsalu.Choncho wosankha mitundu ayenera kusankha ulusi wina wogwirizana ndi mtundu wake kuchokera ku ulusi masauzande ambiri kenako n’kuyerekeza mitundu yofananayi ndi mtundu umodzi umodzi wokha mpaka ulusi womwe umagwirizana bwino ndi mtunduwo utasankhidwa ——Lembani nambala ya ulusi wogwirizana.Izi zimafuna kuleza mtima ndi chidziwitso.

Kukonzekera kwa ulusi

Malinga ndi nambala ya ulusi woperekedwa ndi wojambula utoto, woyang'anira nyumba yathu yosungiramo zinthu amatha kupeza ulusi wofananira.Ngati kuchuluka kwa masheya sikukwanira, tithanso kugula kapena kusintha makonda a Ulusi wofunikira.Kuonetsetsa kuti nsalu zopangidwa mu batch imodzi sizikhala ndi kusiyana kwa mtundu.Pokonzekera Ulusi, timasankha Ulusi wopangidwa mumtundu womwewo pamtundu uliwonse.Ngati kuchuluka kwa ulusi pagulu sikukukwanira, tidzagulanso gulu la Ulusi.Nsalu ikatulutsa, timagwiritsa ntchito magulu onse a Ulusi omwe angogulidwa kumene, osasakaniza magulu awiri a Ulusi kuti apange.

 

Kuluka kwa nsalu ya Jacquard

Ulusi wonse ukakonzeka, ulusiwo udzalumikizana ndi makina a jacquard kuti apange, ndipo ulusi wamitundu yosiyanasiyana udzalumikizidwa mwadongosolo.Pambuyo importing kuthamanga pulogalamu wapamwamba, ndi kompyuta jacquard makina adzamaliza kupanga nsalu kupanga.

Jacquard nsalu mankhwala

Nsaluyo ikatha kupangidwa, iyenera kuthandizidwa ndi njira zakuthupi ndi zamankhwala kuti ikhale yofewa, kukana abrasion, kukana madzi, kuthamanga kwamtundu, ndi zina za nsalu.

Jacquard Fabric Inspection

Kuwunika kwa Nsalu za Jacquard Pambuyo pokonza nsaluyo, njira zonse zopangira zida zatha.Koma ngati nsaluyo ikufunika kuperekedwa kwa makasitomala, kuyang'ana komaliza kwa nsalu kumafunikanso kuonetsetsa:

1. Nsaluyo ndi yathyathyathya popanda creases.
2. Nsaluyo ndi yopanda weft oblique.
3. mtundu ndi wofanana ndi wapachiyambi.
4. Kukula kwake kolondola

Makhalidwe a nsalu ya jacquard

Ubwino wa nsalu ya jacquard

1. Mtundu wa nsalu ya jacquard ndi yatsopano komanso yokongola, ndipo chogwirira chake sichili chofanana;2. Nsalu za Jacquard ndizolemera kwambiri mumitundu.Mitundu yosiyanasiyana imatha kuluka molingana ndi nsalu zapansi zosiyanasiyana, kupanga mitundu yosiyana.Aliyense atha kupeza masitayelo omwe amakonda komanso mapangidwe ake.3. Nsalu ya Jacquard ndi yosavuta kuisamalira, ndipo imakhala yabwino kwambiri kuvala pa moyo wa tsiku ndi tsiku, komanso imakhala ndi makhalidwe opepuka, ofewa, ndi kupuma.4. Mosiyana ndi mapangidwe osindikizidwa ndi masitampu, nsalu za jacquard zoluka sizizimiririka kapena kusokoneza zovala zanu.

Zoyipa za nsalu ya jacquard

1. Chifukwa cha mapangidwe ovuta a nsalu zina za jacquard, kuchuluka kwa weft kwa nsaluyo kumakhala kwakukulu kwambiri, komwe kumachepetsa mpweya wa nsalu.2. Kupanga ndi kupanga nsalu za jacquard ndizovuta, ndipo mtengo wake ndi wapamwamba kwambiri pakati pa nsalu za zinthu zomwezo.

Gulu la nsalu za jacquard

 

Brocade

Brocade imangokhala ndi chitsanzo kumbali imodzi, ndipo mbali inayo ilibe chitsanzo.Brocade ndi yosunthika: · 1.Zovala zapa tebulo.Brocade ndi yabwino kwambiri pamaseti a tebulo, monga zopukutira, nsalu zapatebulo, ndi nsalu zapatebulo.Brocade ndi yokongoletsa koma yolimba komanso yokhoza kupirira kugwiritsa ntchito tsiku ndi tsiku ·2.Zovala.Brocade ndi yabwino kupanga zovala, monga ma jekete odula kapena mikanjo yamadzulo.Ngakhale kuti nsalu zolemera sizikhala zofanana ndi nsalu zina zopepuka, kulimba kwake kumapanga silhouette yokhazikika.·3.Zida.Brocade imadziwikanso ndi zida zamafashoni monga masiketi ndi zikwama zam'manja.Zovala zowoneka bwino ndi nsalu zowirira zimapanga mawonekedwe owoneka bwino a mawu.· 4.Kukongoletsa kunyumba.Brocade cades akhala chinthu chofunikira kwambiri chokongoletsera nyumba pamapangidwe awo okopa.Kukhazikika kwa Brocade kumapangitsa kuti ikhale yabwino kwa upholstery ndi drapes.

 

Brocatelle

 

Brocatelle ndi yofanana ndi Brocade chifukwa ili ndi chitsanzo kumbali imodzi, osati inayo.Nsalu iyi nthawi zambiri imakhala ndi mapangidwe apamwamba kwambiri kuposa Brocade, yomwe ili ndi mawonekedwe apadera, otukumula.Brocatelle nthawi zambiri imakhala yolemera komanso yolimba kuposa Brocade.Brocatelle nthawi zambiri amagwiritsidwa ntchito pazovala zapamwamba komanso zapamwamba, monga masuti, madiresi, ndi zina.

Damask

Mapangidwe a Damask amadziwika ndi mitundu yoyambira ndi mapeni kukhala mobwerera kutsogolo kupita kumbuyo.Damask nthawi zambiri imakhala yosiyana ndipo imapangidwa ndi ulusi wa satin kuti ukhale wosalala.Chomalizacho ndi nsalu yamtengo wapatali yosinthika yomwe imakhala yosunthika.Nsalu ya Damask imagwiritsidwa ntchito nthawi zambiri ndikupangidwa mu Madiresi, Masiketi, Ma Jackets Apamwamba, ndi Makoti.

 

Matelasse

Matelassé (womwe amadziwikanso kuti nsalu ziwiri) ndi njira yowomba nsalu yopangidwa ndi Chifalansa yomwe imapangitsa kuti nsaluyo ikhale yowoneka bwino.Nsalu zambiri zowonongeka zimatha kuzindikirika pa nsalu ya jacquard ndipo zimapangidwa kuti zitsanzire kalembedwe ka kusoka kapena quilting.Nsalu za Matelassé ndizoyenera zovundikira zokongoletsera, mapilo oponyera, zofunda, zovundikira, ma duvets, ndi ma pillowcases.Amagwiritsidwanso ntchito kwambiri pogona pabedi komanso pogona ana.

 

 

 

Zojambulajambula

M'mawu amakono, "Tapestry" imatanthawuza nsalu yolukidwa pa nsalu ya jacquard kuti itsanzire zojambula zakale."Tapestry" ndi mawu osalongosoka, koma amafotokoza nsalu yolemera yokhala ndi zoluka zamitundu yambiri.Tapestry imakhalanso ndi mtundu wosiyana kumbuyo (mwachitsanzo, nsalu yokhala ndi masamba obiriwira pamtunda wofiira idzakhala ndi tsamba lofiira pamtunda wobiriwira) koma imakhala yochuluka, yolimba, komanso yolemera kuposa damask.Tapestry nthawi zambiri amalukidwa ndi ulusi wokulirapo kuposa Brocade kapena Damask.Zokongoletsera m'nyumba: sofa, pilo, ndi nsalu.

 

 

 

Cloque

Nsalu yotsekeka imakhala ndi mawonekedwe okhotakhota komanso mawonekedwe owoneka bwino kapena opindika.Pamwamba pamakhala tinthu tating'ono tating'ono tating'ono tomwe timapangidwa ndi njira yoluka.Nsalu iyi ya jacquard imapangidwa mosiyana ndi nsalu zina za jacquard zomwe zimapangidwira mwa njira yochepetsera.Ulusi wachilengedwe pansaluyo umachepa popanga, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zinthuzo zikhale zokhala ngati matuza.Zovala zazifupi ndi madiresi apamwamba omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito pazochitika zosiyanasiyana ndi zochitika zimapangidwira munsalu iyi ndipo ndizokhazikika komanso zokongola.Ndikokongola komanso kumapereka luso lomwe palibe zinthu zina zomwe zingafanane.